A country of great contrasts in its cultural, historical and current makeup, South Africa is also a land of remarkable natural beauty. Whether you are looking for dramatic mountain ranges snow-capped in winter, rivers ideal for trout or fly fishing, the dry plains of the Karoo or a coastline infamous for having buried many a ship over the ages, South Africa delivers. The country is also known for some of the most beautiful beaches in the world.
One lovely area is known as the Overberg (literally “over the mountain”, i.e. the mountain separating this region from the Cape Peninsula), which lies between mountain and sea. Known as one of the country’s so-called breadbaskets, the area is characterized by undulating hills covered in wheat fields and canola blooms in summer. Blue Cranes (South Africa’s national bird) are often seen hovering in clear skies. It’s easy to wax lyrical about quaint villages steeped in history, architecture that recalls the days of the first Dutch settlers or townsfolk who still greet you politely on the street.
Fairly close to Cape Town International Airport, one has a choice of places to stay, from the five-star Arabella Hotel & Spa near the small touristy city of Hermanus, to a selection of B&Bs, country inns and guesthouses all over the region. Unpack and start exploring. Day trips are easy to manage; choose your activities wisely – at least one attraction per day is easy since everything in the Overberg is in close proximity to almost everything else.
Cape Agulhas
The mighty Indian and Atlantic Oceans converge at Agulhas, which is Africa’s southernmost tip (and NOT Cape Point near Cape Town as so many believe). The Agulhas Lighthouse, a beacon in this area of stormy seas and high winds, has been in operation since 1849. The treacherous coastline has claimed the lives of many, many travelers of the oceans. Ships that foundered around this area are still remembered today in names such as Arniston (a fishing village close to Agulhas) and Birkenhead (a well-known brewery near the town of Stanford in the Hermanus district). A must for every tourist.
Shipwreck Museum
Close to Agulhas, one of the oldest towns in the region is Bredasdorp, named after Michiel van Breda, the first successful farmer of Merino sheep in South Africa. This is where the well-known Shipwreck Museum is situated at 6 Independent Street; it serves as a reminder of many a drama that played itself out on the high seas at the nearby coast. This maritime museum houses a variety of cannons, coins and old artefacts found in ship wrecks and at the bottom of the ocean.
Whale Watching
Hermanus is a popular destination not only because of its good choice of restaurants, Saturday morning market and regular fairs, but certainly as one of the 12 best whale watching destinations in the world, according to the World Wildlife Fund. The best season to enjoy watching these magnificent beasts is between July and December. Hermanus’s Cliff Path offers great view points – watch them come almost right up to the shore to play and perform for the onlookers. Even the beaches are perfect for spotting them, especially from the higher vantage points.
Wine Tasting
As is the case virtually everywhere in Western Cape Province, the cultivation of grape vines in the Overberg is a fast growing industry. Estates in the Hemel en Aarde Valley (literally meaning Heaven and Earth Valley) near Hermanus offer wines of fine quality and tours are available for the connoisseur and the not-so-knowledgeable alike. In close proximity you’ll find towns like Bot River, Stanford, and Elim offering their own products. Well-known labels include those from Stanford Hills and Walker Bay Wines. Other popular wines include boutique varieties from the Black Oystercatcher Estate, First Sighting from the Strandveld Vineyard and a fine Syrah from The Giant Periwinkle.
Caledon
Often referred to as the Overberg’s wheat capital, this town lies on the main route (the N2) between Cape Town, the Cape Town International Airport and Port Elizabeth, which is situated in Eastern Cape Province. Caledon is renowned for its indigenous wild flower garden which has a show every year in September, attracting interest from far and wide.
Very popular is The Caledon, an upscale hotel, casino and spa facility. Gaming at the casino has become very popular in recent years and guests and visitors have a variety of games to choose from, such as American Roulette, Blackjack, Raise ‘em Poker and various slot machines. Every alternate Sunday at 15:00 a promotion of Super 9 Roulette draws the crowds. You can view an overview to brush up on your knowledge of the game before you too place yourself in line for a win! Patrons enjoy the hot springs at the spa. Treat yourself to a visit at the Turkish Baths, a massage by expert hands or a leisurely stroll in the lush gardens.
Napier
This quaint village may only have around 3 000 residents, but it offers the tourist a choice of restaurants/coffee shops such as the Napier Farm Stall (famous for a variety of dishes such as their so-called black pan breakfast, lamb shank and home baked bread) and places of interest to visit – the Nobunto Factory that specializes in handmade candles is a fine example. Jeanette O’Toole’s goat cheese farm is popular for its dairy products and also as a “touch pen” for city kids to experience the feel of a live animal other than domestic pets. Other activities include horse riding and hiking trails.
The townsfolk represent an interesting mix of real old timers (some of whom were born in the village) and city dwellers who have come under the spell of a lifestyle far removed from too many cars and noisy streets. They’re quite happy to have exchanged the bright city lights for unpolluted air and starlit skies when the sun sets. Quite a number of artists and the odd writer now call this cute village home.
De Hoop Nature Reserve
The De Hoop Nature Reserve is situated close to the nearest town, Bredasdorp, and is popular with families and singles alike. The reserve borders the sea and is a true paradise for those who enjoy unspoilt stretches of veld dunes by the sea and splendid views across the ocean. Popular activities include anything from having a peaceful picnic to kayaking and horseback riding or hiking. If you enjoy quiet, peaceful moments, just sit back and immerse yourself in birdwatching.
From De Hoop, take the road back to Bredasdorp, then travel towards the N2 (the main route between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth) in the direction of Swellendam and look out for the R324 which connects Swellendam with the Overberg’s northernmost town, Barrydale. You will cross one of the most beautiful mountain passes in South Africa, namely the Tradopuw Pass. It means the “Women’s Path” in the Khoi language. The pass was built by road engineer and mountain pass builder Thomas Bain between 1869 and 1873.
Barrydale
Not unlike Napier, Barrydale offers a variety of eateries, museums, gift shops and a well-supported art gallery. Be sure to visit the Magpie Art Collective. This unusual art studio specializes in various art forms and finds their inspiration in a wide range of media; recycled material often forms part of their work. An interesting tidbit: two of their funky art works – chandeliers recycled from old bottle tops, discarded trinkets and beads – have made their way into the White House!
The Overberg will appeal to those who want to avoid the big cities, which does not mean that one has to sacrifice quality, as the facilities like accommodation, restaurants, good roads and easy access to places of interest are still very good. People are friendly, the surrounds lovely and most experiences memorable.