Michelangelo designed the dome and the Lantern for St. Peter’s — at the time the tallest dome ever built over the largest church ever built. Tickets for the Lantern are 6 € each, and an elevator takes you to the drum — the first layer where the dome rises out of the basilica. There you can walk around the inside of the dome, just above the words: “You are Peter, and upon this Rock I will build my church” (in Latin). Wander around on the roof where there is a small café and a gift shop. The saints topping Bernini’s arms on the piazza look enormous from here — because they are!
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The rest of the way, though, is on foot: 320 steps. The staircase is windy and teeny tiny between the two layers of the dome. The walls — the layers of the dome — gradually start to lean inward which can be disconcerting and make it hard to balance.
Finally at the top, climbers have mounted what is called the 8th hill of Rome. The view is extraordinary! The Pantheon, the Monument to Vittorio Emmanuel, Castel Sant’Angelo, the bridges across the Tiber are all visible … and all of the Vatican’s nooks and crannies, too. It is remarkable.
Michelangelo did not live to see his dome completed, but it has been hailed as an architectural marvel. When he died in 1564 workers had finished the drum, and Michelangelo had supplied wine and food for a celebration marking the occasion.
Roman Rule of the Day
Not only can you ascend to St. Peter’s heights, but you can also descend to its depths. The Vatican offers tours of the scavi, or excavations, underneath the basilica. Tours must be arranged 6-8 weeks in advance through the Vatican’s Scavi office and must be paid for in advance. Check the Vatican’s website for more details.